Weatherboard Boundary

Today we used the stringline we laid out the day prior to put down the first of our weatherboards around the boundary of the building.  As it was our first time putting on, we were in larger groups so that we could be monitored better and shown what to do.

Was pretty confusing, as the different types of cuts needed meant you really had to think about what angle to put the drop saw at.  A good way to do this, was to get to small pieces of weatherboard cut with the different angles & use these as a dummy to help visualize (and also to line up when putting on the wall frames).

Three major cuts are:  

1) Joins (45 degree angle, cut with weatherboard facing down)

2) Corners (45 degree angle, cut with weatherboard facing up)

3) Straight cut (when butting up against wall, or at a 5 degree pitch if butting up against another weatherboard in a corner).

Once cut, we lined the board up with stringline.  In some cases we also had to use a level or compare by sight to flashing, as the stringlines were not done accurately.  Once in place, a fixing is put in on the first cavity batten with a rose head angular grooved stainless steel 75mm

nail.  This was done by pre-drilling a hole that was 45mm from the bottom of the weatherboard & centered in the middle of the cavity batten.  This will result in all the nails being in the same line when all the boards are put on.
Where two boards were joined up, we had to make sure that the joins were very tight, and re-adjust if not (as this can affect weather tightness, & also the aesthetics).
Before fixing on, we had to paint the ends with stain to help seal the board from deterioration, & as we fixed, we constantly re-checked to make sure that each point where nail was, it was still in line with the pre-marked levels done with the string line.