Back from holidays today, so making a genuine start to get work done with the gib. Didn't really get much done over the holidays, just the ceiling gib for the two back rooms, along with some of the walls, so theres plenty to carry on with.
As a class, we got underway with concentrating on the ceiling gib for the lounge area. This gave everyone the opportunity to go over the procedure of cutting the gib to length, where to fix the glue & also fixing in with the screw gun. The added bonus was that there were numbers available to hold the long lengths of gib so that it didn't snap whilst we were lifting it up.
Once the length had been worked out the ceiling gib could be attached. When measuring the length, we had to make sure that the sheet fell in the middle of two cavity battens.
The measurement is then transffered to the sheet, along with any measurements for cut out sections (for wire that might be for a light fitting etc). Once ready to be fixed, glue is placed on the ceiling batten approximately every 200mm to provide extra fittings for the areas that would not have screws holding it in place. Once this was done, the ceiling gib was held in place and adjusted until it was sitting hard up against the wall edge & the other sheet of gib it was sitting against (if applicable). It is important to remember the SE is against the edge of the room's ceiling & the TE is on the inside sections. As this ceiling area spanned a fair distance it meant we required Standard Gib TE/SE & Standard Gib TE/TE.
Once fixed, a sheet of gib 300mm wide & the length of the sheet (1.2m) was cut and glued in place (as pictured above), to provide extra support to the sheet that was joining it. The sheets were laid out horizontally across the battens to provide regular fixing points.
The same process of gluing gib to provide extra support, was also done along the length of the sheet fixed up (which would help support the join of the gib adjacent to it). These pieces only had to be as long as the width between each cavity batten (approximately 300mm) & 200mm thick.
This process was repeated until the whole ceiling was done. Where there were joins present, we also nailed a few piece of timber across the join temporarily & inserted nails between the timber & the gib to push the gib in at the join (as pictured below). The reason for this was to create the same concept of a tapered edge, so that when the gib stopper comes, the joins are not so apparent as they can be sealed over more effectively.
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