Today we assembled the last two wall frames on the house, but cutting materials and setting out using a 'panel elevation report'. First step was to choose the straightest lengths of timber (for the top and bottom plate) & cut to length. I good way we learnt, was temporarily nail these lengths together and mark out measurement on the top one & cut together. Not only does it make the process faster, but it becomes more accurate a cut as they are both cut at the same line.
A running measurement is then done along the length, marking out the placement of the different elements of the wall (as in photo above). These marks should be put on the edge, as this is the side we will see when setting out. When the measurements were marked off, a combination square was used to show lines where these members are to lined up against. If jack studs were present above a door opening, it was only marked out on the top plate as it wouldn't reach down to the bottom. Once done - the top and bottom plate can be seperated & studs can now be cut.
Length of stud is calculated by taking the ceiling height and adding 20mm for the thickness of the ceiling & floor board & then deducting the thickness of the top and bottom plate. For the Unitec Building this is: 2400 + 20 - 90 = 2330. Once they are cut, they are lined up between the top and bottom plate at the places previously marked out & are aligned accordingly. Once positioned correctly, they are nailed in with 2/90 flat heads.
Once these are all done, the bottom plate is temporarily tacked into the floor along a straight edge using bright nails (as galvanised would damage floor too much) & the diagonals are checked. Once these are correct, the top plate is then temporarily nailed in to the floor as well.
Packing can be added now are should be atleast 250mm and placed so that one is at the bottom and top of the packing gap and then every 800cr's.
Noggings can then be done. These should fall where ever particle board edges for the wall's may be, as it provides the surface for them to be fixed to. The last row of nogs should be left out so that it allows room for adjustment of the length (by checking with a tape and adjusting the length of the nog accordingly).
Lintels, jackstuds, understuds may also be required and are attached accordingly.
The next thing we did, was add a metal angular brace. This was done by taking the length of the bracing required (in this case 2.4m) & measuring it out along the bottom plate. A straight edge was then run from this point to the top plate at a diagonal, and this angle was then marked out on each stud it intersected.
A skill saw was then set to the depth of the angular brace that was being inserted, and cuts were made at these marked out spaces. Then angular brace was then inserted in, to make sure that it sat straight and ok & then to allow the metal brace to sit flush with the wall (so that it didn't affect fixings) a section was checked out so that a recess was achieved. The brace was then put into its place & fixed with a minimum of 2 nails.
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